![]() ![]() Lastly, put back the bonnet, test cap, and screen in their proper places. Next, tighten up the rough-in by putting in the screws or stops. After doing this, remove the test cap, the bonnet, and the screen. #8: Flushingįlush the system by letting both the cold and hot water run out for about 5 minutes. Next, unplug the showerhead and hot spout. If there is none, then it’s time to finish the work. If you find any, you need to fix it before doing the final finishing. Open the water supply and check for any leaks. Then, plug in the showerhead and the hot spouts into the outlets.ĭo a double check to ensure all outlets and inlets are appropriately connected so that when the water comes running out, there won’t be a problem. Once they are well set up, reconnect the test cap and bonnet tightly. ![]() Then, you can look at the manual to confirm they’re correct positions. To do a pressure test, first ensure that the O-ring and the screen are well installed. In addition, a pressure test will detect any leaks that need amending before connecting them to the shower. #7: Do a pressure testĪ pressure test is essential so you can determine if you have done an excellent job. The fitting pipe should face you directly. So, connect a fitting pipe to the top outlet of the valve interior. The outlet connects to the internal valve to ensure free water flow from the valve to the shower. Be careful before using the smolder, so it doesn’t affect the screen (small filtering device). We don’t want to use a high temperature and damage the screen. ![]() Leave the screen after removing other things. Also, remove the stops and screws to enable you to do a good job. #5: Soldering timeīefore smoldering, remove the bonnet and test cap you find in front of the valve. If you need to use Teflon, do make use of it where necessary. Note: If you need just one water supply, then ensure you cover the other pipe using a pipe plug. If you want to do the reverse method (hot water on the right and cold water on the left), it is the same process, just a change in usage. Then you need to connect both the hot and cold water. To do this, first select the supply pipes. Now that you set up the rough-in, it’s time to mount the connecting pipes to the water supply. Note: If the wall is not thick, the plaster guard should be at the back and not the front. Once you have set it up, use at least a 3/8 inches plaster guard, flush the valve, and ensure that the plaster guard is in front. Then, look at it, and you will see the word, ‘UP.’ This feature helps you know the right way to position it. If it fits the valve and still enables it to reach the water supply, mount the valve using the holes on the bracket.īefore using the plaster guard, make sure the valve mounting is solid. To do this, first examine your valve and the thickness of the wall using the bracket. It’s now time to mount the rough-in into the wall. We don’t need any outlet letting out even the smallest amount of water. #2: Take care of the water outletĭisconnect every single water outlet in the house. Also, ensure that all the parts of the rough-in are complete – the bonnet, cover, screen, plaster guard, test cap, and stop. Remember to keep all your tools within reach, as this helps you work faster. How To Install Delta Shower Valve Rough In #1: Get your tools readyīefore you begin, you’ll need the following tools: In this article, we’ll show you how to install a Delta shower valve. Although it stays behind the walls, it’s in charge of controlling the temperature of the water. ![]()
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